Quilt as You Go Hexagons - A Quick Tutorial

 Since this year's temperature quilt plan is Quilt as You Go Hexagons, I thought I'd share a quick tutorial.  I'm sure you can find others out there, and I don't claim to be an expert.  I have done 45 so far, though....

 The first thing you need is a way to cut out those hexagons.  I use a combination of the Hex N More Ruler and You Hexie Thing Ruler. 

You also need to decide on the sizes you want to end up with.  My inside hexagon is 4.5" hexagon marked on the Hex N More.  This is a nice size for me to cut the half hexies to do highs and lows for each day.

The background needs to be one inch bigger on each side, so that actually means two inches larger (it took me a while to actually get this)  So in my case I make a 4.5" inside hexagon and cut a 6.5" hexagon for the background.

My current stack of backgrounds for Winter.  With bonus triangles. 

You also need to cut batting to the inside hexagon size.  4.5" in my case. I am using Warm and Natural because its what I had.   You definitely do not want a thick batting.

 Background plus batting.

 Center batting and then front side hexagon.  I like to steam press at this point.  Helps keep it from shifting and flattens it a bit. 

 On each side fold up and press.  Do not fold the edge of fabric all the way to the batting, you want to leave a small gap to make the turning up easier.  Otherwise things get too bulky too quickly.

 Here each side is folded once, close to the edge of the batting/top hexagon.

 The next fold you take is going to come over the top hexagon, covering the raw edge of the top hexie and the batting.  Continue to press.

 Now you are folding one side at a time, press and pin.  I use glass head pins for things like this so you can press without worrying about melting things.

Make sure to miter those corners carefully.

 These corners aren't stellar, you can do better! (so can I)

 Now you are going to stitch around the edge on top of the hexagon through all the layers.  I just did a straight stitch, some like to use a decorative stitch. 

For joining hexagons together you can use a zigzag or a decorative stitch. 

 Here is a close up of my temperature quilt so far.  It is not perfect.  I'm sure it could be better, but I don't have grand plans for this one other than the fun of making it. 

The advantage of this method is you can just continue to grow the quilt. 

There is a lot more work and time up front, but when you are done putting the blocks together, they are done forever.

It does also take a lot of fabric.  Three yards of fabric yielded about 90 6.5" hexagons for the background. 

 Please let me know if you have any questions or I made any errors.

Traveling Thread Catcher Tutorial

Today I will show you all the steps to make your very own Traveling Thread Catcher.

Let's start with what you need:

1 Fabric Rectangle:   8 x 9.75”

2 Fabric Circles:   3 ½“ diameter (across)

2 Card board Circles: 2 ¾” diameter  (Use lightweight cardboard. I used a soda can box)

2 Batting Circles:     2 ¾” diameter  

1 Pringles Circle:    1/2” wide 

*If you are looking to make multiples for gifts, you can get three thread catcher from one fat quarter*

 I like to put masking tape on the Pringles circle, covers the edges and also keeps the Informacion Nutricional from showing through light colored fabric!

 The easiest way to trace your batting and cardboard circles is to use the inside Pringles ring!

1. Do a running stitch around the edge of fabric circle.

2.      Place batting then cardboard in center of fabric circle, pull up stitching to gather around, secure with a knot.

 3.      Do this twice.

4.      Sew two circle sets together, wrong sides together. 

 5.      Press long edges of rectangle up ¼”

6.      Sew 8” edge of rectangle, right sides together, using a 1/4" seam.

7.      Press seam open

8.      Slide Pringles ring over fabric tube (wrong side is still out)

9.      Fold fabric tube over Pringles ring, pinning pressed edges together, pushing Pringles ring to the top.

10.   Stitch right under the ring to make a casing

11.   Remove pins, and pull the inside of the fabric tube out

12.   Pin bottom to the fabric tube.  Tube will be slightly larger – just ease as you stitch.

 13.   Stitch all the way around.

14.   Push the bottom through the ring.

 Pin and stitch other side of the bottom to the fabric tube.

15.   Ta Da! Twist and push together – thread catcher is ready.

 This is the one that I use.  The rest have been given as gifts, or will be at the Guild Boutique in a few weeks.

 If you have any questions are clarifications, please leave a comment or an email.  I'll help where I can!



Other resources for this pattern:

http://fabrictherapy.blogspot.com/2015/02/a-tutorial-sweetest-little-thread.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbOflNoEYLc

Turned Edge Applique - A Tutorial

As I've been doing a lot of hand applique lately, I thought perhaps a tutorial on how I was preparing my appliques might be in order. 

This tutorial explains how take the shape that you are planning to applique and create a turned edge with your machine as opposed to ironing the edge with starch or needle turn applique.  This method will give you a clean edge, something that won't fray or add bulk.

Ready?  Let's begin.

You will need your shape to be appliqued, a lightweight interfacing or stabilizer, sewing machine, thread, and iron.

 This is the shape I will be using to demonstrate the technique - one of my extra diamond shapes from pattern testing.

 For my interfacing I am using Pellon Soft-N-Stay.  It is very thin/lightweight so that if I choose not to cut it away later, its not a big deal.  Note that on the instructions, this particular product should not come into direct contact with an iron.

 First you will need to cut a piece of the stabilizer the size of your applique piece.  It doesn't need to be perfect.  Pin it in place - on top of the right side of the applique.

 Sew all the way around your applique piece, 1/4" from the edge of the applique piece.  This method is great because you can see through the stabilizer, so corners can be exact and you will be sure not to cut off any points.

 Trim up the stabilizer and cut off points.  If you had curves, you would want to clip them for easier turning.

 In the center of the stabilizer, cut a slit.  It doesn't need to be small - no one will see it and you want to make turning easy.  You don't want to cut it all the way to the stitching, either.

 Turn your piece right side out - I like chop sticks to help with points.

 Press your piece - from the right side!

 Lay your applique piece onto the back ground fabric where you want it.  Pin in place.  If you are going to use your sewing machine to secure the applique, keep the pins on the front.

 However, if you are planning to hand applique, a really neat trick that I learned is to pin from the back.  This will keep your thread from constantly catching on your pins as you sew.

 All pinned and ready to go. 

 Here is a shot of what I've been appliqueing lately.  3 diamonds done, 5 to go.